This Info was Gather from web site
http://www.vintagebus.com/howto/colorsand
I added two more itemsI did this to my car and it looks a lot better when I was done
1. I started my color sanding with 600 grit then follow all the other steps .
2. Two drops of dish soap . What's that for if you have hard water this will help soften the
water keep your hand from drying out..
Start with the #2000 Take several of the sheets and cut them to
fit the sanding block. Use the paper cutter at the office - works great
for this! Soak them in clean water in your bucket. Add a few drops of
dish soap to the water. Now, down to bidnez: Go wash your hands. Put on
clean, cotton, non-scratching clothes. Wash the areas to be sanded. Get
anal-retentive. Ok, *now* down to bidnez. Take a piece of paper and
wrap it around the block. Using the "holey" block, and the holey side
of the paper, start sanding. There are different schools of thought
here, but some body guys suggest using straight, with sucessive passes
at 90 degrees. This breaks down any ridges built up. Then the polisher
would break those down. Sand until the orange peel appears to be gone.
To check, wipe it clean with a CLEAN terry towel that I should have
said to buy above. As it dries, look against the light; orange peel
will appear as "shiny" divots in the surface. You gotta get real close.
You won't see the orange peel until the surface dries. Keep sanding
until the surface is entirely flat, and you have no dots/divots. If
it's *really*, *really* bad, you can start with #1500. I've started
with heavier than that and regretted it! Keep the sanding sludge rinsed
off. Eastwood sells a cool suction-cup watering thing, but if this is a
one-time deal, it's prolly not worth it. Once you have all the orange
peel out with #2000, go over it will #2500. Now you're trying to get
any scratches from the #2000 out with the #2500. Sending the spider to
catch the fly. You're done when you have a dull shine from the
sandpaper alone. Keep stroking, you *will* get there. Start with a
small area, say 1' square. Don't wander about the car picking at spots,
it will bite you later. Don't get stingy with the sandpaper - it's
false economy. It takes more effort to try and eek mor elife out of
worn paper, than it does to use new paper. Paper is cheep - your labor
isn't. You can get 3 "sides" out of a sheet of paper - it will be
obvious once you see how to wrap the paper on the block. Keep
everything really wet. Really, really wet. Every time you get some
sanding effluent built up, rinse it off. Dunk the block and paper in
the bucket every now and then and "swish" the slurry off. Every hour or
so, change the water in the bucket. * Polishing. Now the fun part. Wash
all the sanding debris off, and let dry. Hook up the polisher with the
polishing pad, and a swirl of polishing compound on the pad. Set the
pad on the surface - don't fire it up yet! - and squish the compound
over a 2' square area or so. If you don't, you'll sling it all over the
place. Start the polisher slow - get an adjustable-speed one, and choke
down the speed at first. Your greatest danger here is "burning" the
surface by catching an edge or pressing too hard. Slowly work the
compound around, using light pressure and low speed. As the compund
starts to "sink in" (it's not really), you can up the speed. As it
dries, you'll start seeing the shine come thru. Be patient! Don't trade
pressure for time, it don't work like that! You will probably need to
repeat this step two or three times, depending on the condition of the
starting finish, and how well you sanded it. You're done when you have
a kick-ass gloss with just the compound. When the entire car was been
worked up thru compounding, then you can use the glaze. The car should
be awful bright by that time, and some people are so happy by this
point, they skip the glaze. I know I have. The glaze is the icing on
the cake. For a p-car, I wouldn't skip it. "What if I'm afraid to do
this on my car?" Then either practice on the minivan, or go to the
junkyard and get an old fender with good paint. Older VW paint is
*excellent* for this as the paint was really thick and durable. Get a
solid-colored piece, similar in color (light or dark) to your subject
car.